Hey all! I have recently (well, it's been my dream since I was ten) set the goal of Climbing Denali (Mt McKinley) May 2010. I was curious if anyone else on here has done a major climb like this, and could give me a few pointers, and if they knew the best way to pre-train-tain for this. (being as I'm still under 18, I won't be able to do the Denali Specific stuff for a year yet) I've only done small time climbs before this, so any help is greatly appreciated. Also, I forgot I had an account here (created it a few months ago) and I don't think I Introduced myself, I'm Raspberry and it's great to 'meet' all of you.Thanks in advance!
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Major Climbs
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Due to funding and permits Iv been screwed many times on Denali.Im trying to set it up again for 2010 and hope this time it goes through.Iv done several other high points in the US.Rainere, hood, granite peak, the wind river range in wyoming screwed me for 3 attempts to make a summit due to weather. Kings peak took me 3 days to do a 35 mile each way hike with a summit bid on day 2. What you want to look into is AmericasRoof.com.Youll find a wealth of info there. I do most of my research on high points there and people that have done the hikes share thier stories and journals of each peak. Thers a book out too, I cant recall the name and I loaned my copy out to a freind so I cant walk to the bookshelf and look it up. its something along the lines of high pointing: the 50 tallest peaks in teh US. Good book, full of good stuff.You an experienced climber? or a newbie?If you neevr read it look into On Rope. Its the bible of climbing, caving, and anything to do with rope work and technical placements.I live at about 4600 feet in Utah and have done several high points, I climb rock and ice, and get a boner when I find a new vertical cave to explore.If its climbing I either know it or i know a source to find out about it.as to McKinely, your gonna need a permit, thers a waiting list. Get your shit together early, make it atleast 3 years in advance to try and get it set up. training... holy shit I can write a book. Start with americas roof, visit a REI and go through the books, many are written spoecifically on McKinely, and learn the fucking ropes ! rope work is important, pay attention to the knots and learn to tie em blindfolded. know your gear, inspect it daily and use it, be familiar with it. Koflex plastic boots with ridgid front point crampons are needed, as well as walking crampons. and a heavy ice axe, good ice tools for the vertical work, those boots and crampons for the two pair and the boots ? your looking at about a grand. another 400 in a 4 season tent anda footprint, add the sleeping bag and the stove at about 500 for the two of them, nalgene bottles, the clothes.... Iv been at this shit for about 10 years and have someplace around 8 grand in equipment, it gets lost and broken, a rope is good till you take a class 2 fall on it, then its junk, or after 1 season of climbing its garbage, static ropes for rappelling, dynamic for climbing. You got alot to learn to do that hill anytime soon.Start hanging around the climbing gyms and pick up tips and meet people that are into it. If i had more time Id write more but it should be a hell of an overwhelming start with what I wrote already.
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Eee Thank you! We're going to the library today, and I'm going to call the Talkeetna Ranger Station today as well to see about that waiting list, I live in the Palmer/Wasilla, Alaska Area and at the end of either April or May we're moving up to the fairbanks area and stopping in at Talkeetna and Denali on the way up, so I can talk to the actual people in the know then. Do you have an average idea for the cost of all the equipment? (I should mention I'm fairly alone on this in my family, they all think I'm nuts.) About a year ago I and a few friends spent about a week hiking and climbing around Wind River, however they held me back to do the actual summit. As far as anything else goes, it's all small time climbing and hiking.Thank you so, so much for all your help. Edit: There is no waiting list, 60 days to put in your notice, but they might change it in upcoming years to first come first serve, and there is a something like 1500 or 150 climbering limit up at one time.Second Edit:I picked up three books, Mt McKinley Climber's Handbook, In the Shadow of Denali, and Denali Climbing Guide. The first one I listed looks like it has everythng in it, I just wish that they were a little newer, all being from early ninties or late eighties.
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Thats what I meant by a waiting list. Living close would help, its a long trip for me to get there. IF people are on the mountain and you get there you wont be climbing. gear isnt cheap. the boots, the tents the clothes add in anti balling plates, the fuel for a 3 oz stove thats gonna cost ya another 150 bucks in addition to the bottles for carring the fuel. climbing is big shit, big bucks, big risk. If you want to make a summit bid for McKinley, Id look at doing Mt Hunter as a warm up.You cant summit that hill alone. Your gonna need to find a team. Im experienced and thats one I wouldnt set out for on a solo bid, you have no where near the experience I do, your asking for death doing it alone. Climbing is about living, not about seeking out death. Dont be a stupid bastard, take the time to get into shape and learn what to do and how to do it. Id spent alot of time with an ice axe practicing arresting a fall, thats where most people get into trouble and end up sliding down a mountian a few hundred feet and then over a cliff for a few hundred more to the ground.
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That's why I'm taking three years to do tons of practice climbs (hunter was one I had planned for 2008), and I wasn't anywhere near stupid enough to take it solo, that's asking for it. Planning for an expidition of about 6, so far I have 4 that are commited, one maybe, and I expect three of the four to drop out before its 2010 (lack of motivation and will), but after they do I'll still have time to convince more since it is so far away.
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Chance...The pain in the ass got me to commit to doing it as well. Rawr.